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“Artists need to focus on their work and we need to have a support structure behind them.”Īs public money for the arts is being slashed almost everywhere around the world, Estonia has baked cultural funding into its very fabric. They support projects and bring international writers and curators on tours through the museum, among other activities. “The fact that we have really good artists is the main prerequisite, but that by itself is not going to do everything,” says Kadi-Ell Tähiste, a project manager of the recently established Estonian Contemporary Art Development Center. Interior of EKKM, in the former elevator shaft that is now used as a (disorienting) exhibition space. The result is as close to an art-world utopia as any place can reasonably hope to get.īelow, we survey the rules the Estonian art scene has made for itself-and what the rest of the world can learn from them. It means that Estonians have been able to make their own rules, unencumbered by deference to the way things have always been done.
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Tardiness, however, can have its benefits. Unlike many culture-rich Western cities-whose contemporary art scenes ignited in the 1960s and whose infrastructure is built on hundred-year-old art collections and even older money-Tallinn has had to create a contemporary art community and market out of thin air. “But what we actually needed is to activate the scene here.” “For quite a long time in Eastern Europe, we only thought about getting out,” says Maria Arusoo, the director of the Center for Contemporary Art ( CCA), who returned to Tallinn after graduating from Goldsmith’s in London. Economic and cultural freedom have been good to Estonians-and, as a result, their contemporary art scene has never been stronger. Its purchasing power has grown a staggering 400 percent over the past 20 years. Since the Soviet Union receded in 1991, Estonia has transformed itself into one of the wealthiest in Eastern Europe, and one of the most technologically advanced nations in the world. Home to almost half of Estonia’s population of 1.3 million, Tallinn is teeming with the energy, fierce ambition, and talent of its young citizenry. Even during the dead of night, the streets are bustling and shops are open. The sun never really sets during peak summer in Estonia’s capital-it just grazes the horizon line before rising again.
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